Turning a Kit Less Pen Section on My Atlas Metal Lathe



hello of luck at the shop I've been saying that I was gonna do this for a long time now and today is the day I'm finally gonna get started and give it a shot I got a nice rod of plastic it's about eight inches long I got it from classic nib it's called Aegean Sea I hope I pronounced right Aegean maybe I'm not a hundred percent sure it's a beautiful blue and green and what I'm going to do is we're going to attempt to turn a Qibla spin on the Atlas metal lathe I'm not sure how it's gonna work out let's find out together we're going to start by making our section and I cut a 50 millimeter long piece off the rod and I've got it installed and my college Chuck I'm gonna go ahead and now and face it off I need to drill a fifteen sixty fourths inch hole thirty millimeters into my blank I've marked the bit and right here where the red starts that is exactly thirty millimeters from the tip I'm going to use a starter bit and put a dimple in the end of my blank to ensure that I get a nice straight start with my bit I've chucked up a 764 cinch bit and we're gonna go ahead and drill the rest of the way through our blank I need to cut a 10 millimeter tenon on the end of this blank and I need to cut it exactly ten point three millimeters into the blank I've got a mark here and just to the right of that red line is exactly ten point three millimeters the blank started out at 20 millimeters and I'm down to 17 point 85 millimeters you can see that this process is going to take a bit of time so instead of filming it all I'm gonna shut the camera off get it out of the way that'll let me be more more careful as I'm going into my shoulder here to ensure that I don't take any more away than I need to I'll go ahead and get this down to 10 millimeters and we'll come back and pick up right there I've got my tenon cut to exactly ten point one two millimeters now that is a tiny bit over ten but that is such a small amount it won't hurt anything and our die will go right over that and put a beautiful set of threads on there I've got two things I want to do before I use the die to thread it number one I want to cut a small relief on the back of the tenon that way as I'm threading this into the body the threads will stop from the body to the section and it won't walk as tightly onto the section sometimes they lock in really tight you can't break them loose that'll stop that the other thing I want to do is put a little chamfer on the end of this just to kind of oh that will allow my die to start nicely and it will also allow me to very easily get it started in the body of the pin that should do very nicely for the relief on the back of the tenon now I'm going to reset the tool in my tool rest and I'm going to come in and put a nice little chamfer on the end of the tenon here's a close-up of the tenon you can see the relief on the back and a nice little chamfer on the front I'm ready now to go ahead and cut some threads on this tenon I've already lubricated it and I'm just going to use the tap and die holder and I'm just going to feed it on there and let it cut the threads a couple of cranks forward and then a crank or two backwards to remove the chips break them off I flipped the dye around inside the tap and dye holder and now we're going to go ahead and run it up on the threads one last time just to ensure that we have a nice clean cut taking a very close look at my tenon you'll notice where I cut my relief it wasn't quite deep enough I'm gonna go ahead and clean that up a little bit and make it just a little deeper because what's gonna happen is if I thread a body onto this section this little hump here is going to keep it from seating nice and flat against the shoulder of the section I've reset the cutter in the tool holder and I'm ready to go ahead and clean up the back of that tenon that's much better let me grab the body from a pin that I've already made and let's do a quick test fit and you can see we've got a really nice surface fits at the back end of this section i've remounted my section in a threaded mandrel and have brought up a 60-degree live Center just to provide some support I need to go ahead and turn this blank down to 12 millimeters in diameter I've got the blank roughly turned down to probably somewhere between 14 and 15 millimeters I'm going to go ahead and move the camera out of the way because I've just been turning this with one hand because it's difficult to maneuver with the camera and I want to slow down and take nice smooth cuts to make sure that I have a good surface on my blank when I get it close to the 12 millimeter mark I'll come back and show it to you once we hit 12 millimeters my section has been Trude to 12 millimeters and you can see I've got a little line right here this is 23 millimeters in length that is going to be the grip and this will be the nib for my section so we're going to go ahead and resort to a more traditional turning tool this is a very small little gouge and I'm going to use that for shaping the section as well as the nib I'll take a couple of quick cuts on camera and then I may have to shut the camera off because I'm not sure I can get the right positioning with the camera in the way I think that'll do quite nicely for a grip it needs a little cleaning up there's a couple little ridges in there I think part of that there's two reasons that cause that number one I think my gouge could use a little sharper edge on it it might need to be run across the grinder and number two I'm turning it such a slow speed I just not getting as smooth of a cut as I would like what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to go ahead and use a parting tool and I'm going to cut a shoulder and then we'll go back to the gouge and start shaping this into a nib I've got a nice pleasing shape there I really like how this is turning out what I want to do now is I'm going to get this off the lathe I'm gonna insert a refill in here and find out just where the tip of the nib stops in the refill so I know where I've got to cut this off and I won't actually cut it off we'll just keep turning it down and turning it away until we we have the proper amount of nib sticking through the end of our section I've removed the section from the mandrel and I went head and grabbed a Parker refill if we insert it into the section take a look at that it is perfect all we really need to do is clean that end up and honestly I think I'll do that with a little sandpaper because I really like the shape of this and I don't want to take a chance you can see there's a tiny little chip right there but that'll sand away because there's plenty of material between the nib and the and the outside of the section so I think we're ready to go to sanding I have my section back in the mandrel and I've grabbed a piece of 120 grit a brunette and I'm just gonna start shaping the end of this what I want is I've got a nice square shoulder here but I want to sort of take some of that harshness away so that it transitions nicely into the nib I'll also use the a Burnett to kind of clean up this little con concave section here give it a nice smooth feel because there are a few ripples in there and then we'll move to micromesh sand this down and I'll come back and show it to you right before I polish it and here is the newly completed section I am really happy with how it turned out I like the shape I like the feel I've got a nice extension of the ink refill at the end let me grab the body of another pin and try it on just see how it looks here's a shot of the nib on the body of the pen I've got a really nice fit here from the threads to the section we just try a cat make sure there's no issue not at all it's gonna fit really nicely I am very happy with how that turned out I'd really like to thank you for joining me for this video I know I said I was going to turn in titli's pin but I really don't want the video to be super long and this is a rather drone drawn-out process but this is a quick shot again of the section I created I am very happy with it the next video I'll be building a body to match and the final video we'll do the cap I would like to thank you for joining me I really hope you enjoyed this video I want you to know that you are always welcome in my shop come back and see me again real soon and have a great evening

29 Replies to “Turning a Kit Less Pen Section on My Atlas Metal Lathe”

  1. Have you shot a video of your Atlas Metal Lathe? I have 7 wood lathes and have been toying with the idea of a metal lathe. I have an old Atlas bench drill press and love it. So I would like to find an old Atlas lathe. Atlas machines are tough and very well built. My problem is space as you could imagine. I'm giving one lathe to one of my boys and as soon as other kids have space I plan on spreading them out. My father and father in law were wood turners in their younger days so I want my kids and grand kids to enjoy wood turning too. Thanks for your videos. Always fun to watch and learn new things.

  2. Great job, Bob! Always enjoy your videos and learn something new. That is a very nice nib and grip you turned. Do you recall what size (mm) you turned the nib to at the shoulder.

  3. A threaded mandrill and a metal lathe, oh my! Itโ€™s getting expensive, but itโ€™s nice. Will tap and die work?

  4. Very interesting process you have started but you might live to regret this learning curve!!!!
    I will look forward to subsequent videis showing completion.
    Thanks
    James

  5. Oh no! Now I need to start building a collection of engineering machinery as well! ๐Ÿ˜‚
    Great video Bob – makes it look easy!

  6. I always enjoy watching your videos, but I have to ask why didn't you use the "feed" on the lathe. I am a machinist by trade and woodworker by hobby, also have you thought of using carbide insert tooling.

  7. Hi Bob, That first section looks great. Looking forward to the other two sections being turned. Your Atlas lathe seems to be working really well. You must be pleased with it. Cheers, Huw

  8. Bob this is finally coming together, when you started with buying the lathe to rebuilding and some custom work to this incredible pen. Looking forward to seeing the next videos. Take Care

  9. Great video Bob Iโ€™ve been waiting for this one for awhile. Youโ€™re still thanking like a wood turner, and you should be thanking more like a machinist. This lathe has a lot of features youโ€™re not talking advantage of. Like power feed.

  10. 1:45 you donโ€™t need to put a mark. Youโ€™re knobs, handles, wheels what ever you want to call the has graduations on them and they are very accurate. You should be using those, and you should be using your power feed.

  11. Rob this is why I started watching you. You truly are amazing and down to every millimeter. That is quite hard to do. I will take this encouragement to try to do one of my own. However I have been unsuccessful at this time. Fantastic job Bob!

  12. Hi Bob looking good.
    Have you tried sanding from 120 to 400 then using the white Yorkshire grit it gives a great finish. That's what I use now I've not used my micro pads for weeks. Did you find it any easier turning on the atlas lathe by any chance.

  13. Thanks Bob, That was very encouraging .. I will have to give real consideration to decide if I want to journey down a new and different pen-making rabbit hole.

  14. You got there!Well done Bob๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

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